2023 Tesla Model Y Long Range - DIY Sleek Dash Cam Install - Viofo VM1 (Works for Model 3 as well)
You may be thinking to yourself, Tesla Model 3 and Y already come with a dashcam. Why the need for an aftermarket one?
Here are reasons why:
- Redundancy
- Wide Angle of View aka "Zoomed out." Tesla's angle of view is very narrow (zoomed in) as demonstrated below. This allows you to capture more info and its higher resolution is better for capturing license plates and other details.
- Audio (Tesla does *not* record audio)
- Color accuracy and resolution (See for yourself below)
- GPS/Speed info
- The video quality will be much better at night due to the large dedicated sensor a dash cam has.
My criteria for a superb dash cam setup. Why this VIOFO was the best:
- Has to be compact and sleek. My aim was to hide it behind the mirror and stick to the windshield.
- Has to NOT have any startup chimes, sounds, voices, etc. This cam is perfect. All voices/sounds can be disabled. Completely silent operation (except for a slight hiss from the speaker at startup, only lasts for a few seconds)
- Has to be inexpensive
- Has to work with the car's power system without fuss. Plugs into the USB-C port in the front storage compartment with the sliding lid.
- Has to connect well to the phone app and not have any weird location permission requirements. I did not get any weird vibes at all from this app/camera like other cameras I've tried in the past which force you to always reveal your location.
What's required for a stealthy low key install on your Tesla:
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- Plastic trim pry tools including a credit-card sized plastic vinyl wrap squeegee to gently pry the headliner just a tad so you can sneak the wire between the windshield. I'm talking 1mm of movement. This tool makes it incredibly easy to sneak the wire in for a clean install. it will evenly distribute pressure so you don't damage or Marr the headliner. The dash cam DOES come with one plastic pry tool. I don't know if it will be enough. But try it!
- Viofo dash cam
- 10 feet USB-C cable (I went through 7 USB-C cables until I found one that powered the camera. Despite these cables having similar appearances and specs, for some reason 6 out of the 7 did not power my camera, but strangely they did power my iPhone.) I also had to purchase this USB-C right angle adapter for a clean install)
- 1/2" drill bit to create a small pass through in the lower cubby for the cable to pass through. Remember this is a 100% stealth install. No visible wires. (see photo below)
- Zip ties (you'll want 3-4 to securely attach the cable to other wires in the car)
- Flat plastic tool to help route the cable between the headliner and windshield... probably not necessary but HIGHLY recommended. This ensures you won't damage the headliner because this tool will allow you to evenly and gently pry the headliner just enough to sneak the cable through for a 100% clean OEM install. It has a wide footprint.
- LED Mechanic Light. This will be very nice to see what you are doing, especially down below. My iPhone 15 Pro LED flashlight didn't cut it. A good LED mechanic's light will put light where you need it and you can rest it on the floor so you can work comfortably.
Install Procedure
- Test your power source and cable before proceeding. Make sure the car can power on the camera.
- If you are uncomfortable with DIY'ing this install, please pay a professional. But if you have hands and basic tools, really it's quite simple. Taking apart the Tesla was easier than I thought. Just go slow, have a bright LED light, and you'll be fine.
- You'll need to remove the lower kick panel that sits by your feet and covers the *right* side of the center console. It's a carpeted cover. Take your plastic pry tool and put it under the carpeted cover near the base of the seat. Then just pull the carpeted cover away with your hands. It's large. Place it in the back cargo area with the other car pieces. This will help you route the USB-C cable down below, across the lower kick panel, and back up the A pillar and to the rear view mirror.
- Remove the little plastic triangle on the right side of the dash (by the long dash trim) when you open the door. It just pries out.
- Pull the right weather stripping down by pulling it with your fingers. Pull it down just enough so you can remove the A pillar cover. Yes you should remove the A pillar cover, it makes things way easy and helps you professionally route the USB-C cable along the SAME route of the factory wires. I snuck my cable BEHIND a factory wire for a clean install that won't interfere with the airbag. I used Tesla's OEM route. When you install your cable, make sure it looks 100% OEM and follow the OEM wires. You should not see any wires awkwardly jutting out.
- Remove the lower center panel below the glove box. Just use a screw driver to pop the plastic rivets and yank it down with your hands. It's the cover that connects all the way forward to the end of the carpet and contains the OEM footwell LED light on it.
- Now you can remove the A-Pillar interior cover. It pulls out using your fingers. There is a white plastic tab that holds the A pillar cover to the body of the car in case the airbags deploy, just pull this tab out with your fingers. The A pillar easily comes out. Set it safely in the trunk.
- Now empty out your front storage cubby area, this is where you'll need to drill the 1/2" hole as you see below. This helps you route the wire. Drill SLOWLY and in the precise position I show in the photo. Right underneath that is an AC routing ducting. NOT the end of the world if you drill through that, but just try to avoid it. Drill slowly and check your work. In the position I drilled in below, the drill bit would MISS the ducting. But your car may be different so I recommend going slow. The hole will allow easy pass-through. Make sure you snake the USB-C cable so it GOES BEHIND things and follows the routing of other cables in the car. Zip tie your USB-C cable to these stock cables. Route the cable up the A pillar, there is a white long plastic piece that routes OEM cables. I snuck my USB-C cable behind that and routed it upwards 100% OEM style. I did not need zip ties here as I just snuck the cable in that plastic holder.
- You'll need to now get the cable across the top of the windshield. Take your plastic credit-card sized vinyl wrap tool (you may use some other stiff plastic flat tool) and gently insert it between the windshield and headliner and gently gently pry JUST enough so you can sneak the cable in.
Notes
- This camera uses 1500ma @ 5V. In other words, very little power.
- Power is supplied to the car's USB-C outlets whenever the car is "awake." When is the car awake? During driving, during updates, during sentry mode use. This means your camera will be automatically powered on and recording during these states. When the car goes to sleep, no power will be supplied to the ports and thus your camera will be inactive.
- This camera also has GPS/speed/vibration/bump detection as well.
- This camera does come with a power supply cigarette plug. This is too short for the Tesla and sits in the rear storage compartment will require you to drill there. I don't know what's under there so I wouldn't drill. The hole I made in the front compartment, it was easy to see what was below the drill point.
- I have a ceramic tinted windshield. The VIOFO cam comes with two stiff cling stickers specifically for this purpose. Cut it to size, carefully attach the sticker to the tint, and the camera to the sticker. The bond is very strong.
Route your USB-C cable up the A pillar where this red and yellow highlight is. This will travel with the factory wires and won't interfere with the airbag.
Angle of view example. A wide camera will provide context for cars coming from the side.
