Sunday, March 24, 2024

Rinseless Wash: The Ultimate Wash Method for your Tesla + Master Detailing Item List

 How to Rinseless Wash your Tesla



(or any vehicle for that matter)

Rinseless wash is the ultimate way to wash your Tesla.  The safest, the fastest, the most efficient (uses the least water) and the cheapest. About 50 cents per wash.

Q. What is a rinseless wash?  

A. A rinseless wash uses a bucket with 2 to 3 gallons of plain water mixed with 1 to 2 ounces of rinseless wash solution (a cap full or so).  Rinseless wash uses polymers, emulsifiers, and surfactants to gently and effectively lift dirt off the paint and encapsulate it in the liquids to safely carry away from your paint. There is no rinsing involved at the end.  You simply dry the car with a towel after you apply the rinseless wash using your sponge. The whole process can be done in 20-30 minutes for an SUV.

Q. Will rinseless wash scratch my paint? 

A. No, not if done gently with correct technique.  A rinseless wash is jam packed with technology and chemistry advancements which safely lift and keep dirt away from the vehicle's surface. 

Q. Why use rinseless wash versus traditional soap and water wash? Does it replace it?

A. Simple.  It saves time, money, and is safer for your vehicle.  A soap and water wash works, is fun, and has its place.  However given the latest advancements in rinseless wash technology, rinseless has come to the point where you don't need to use all that water.  Further a soap and water wash is potentially damaging to your paint as the drying process is what causes scratches as your bare drying towel goes over the paint.  Now you may argue that Rinseless wash requires drying too doesn't it?  Yes, it does. However rinseless wash polymers act as a "drying lubricant" making it safe to dry your towel without scratching.  You can safely dry using a soap and water wash but you need an additional "drying aid" product which acts as a drying lubricant.  In short, the rinseless wash product kills two birds with one stone, acting as its own drying aid.  Further a traditional soap and water wash takes up to 60 gallons while you can get two washes out of one 2-gallon bucket of rinseless solution.

How to get Started




What you'll need, and my personal list after using Rinseless Wash for one year.

1) Chemical Guys Bucket. - Any bucket will do but this is my personal favorite. It's compact and has detailing in mind. Make sure you purchase the optional lid which makes this bucket a a stool you can sit on. Plus the next item is absolutely critical and is made specifically for this CG bucket

2) Cyclone grit guard - This is a must. This traps & funnels dirt to the bottom of the bucket where the dirt cannot travel back up into your sponge and back onto your paint scratching it. This takes the standard usual grit guard you may have seen and takes it to the next level. Protect your paint from scratches.

3) Electric Pump Sprayer - An absolute must for pre-treating your panels. Will last dozens if not hundreds of washes.

4) Ultra Black Sponge - Ultra vital. These sponges are specifically engineered for use with Rinseless Wash. It uses laser etched cuts to trap dirt and has an open cell foam design which further traps dirt and releases it back into your bucket when you rinse your sponge after each panel. 

5) Liquid8R Drying towel.  My absolute Fav. My new favorite towel

Third favorite drying towel is: The Rag Company Guantlet Premium Drying Towel.  

I use all three for my drying. One for one half of the car, and the other for the second half. This isn't necessary, just scratch mitigation technique. Wash your towels after every use.

I can't say enough good things about these towels. Worth every penny. Quite simply the best towels in the business hands down. Fold this towel in fours (or as thick as possible) and wipe dry in straight lines.  This towel is thick and avoids pressure points from your hands. Pressure points scratch. Notice a theme here regarding pressure points?

6) DIY Detail Rinseless Wash or P&S Absolute Rinseless Wash. DIY Detail has a bit more cleaning power and P&S is a bit slicker.  Both are fantastic. My current main is DIY. I also want try Armour Hero soon.

These are optional as drying aids

The Rinseless wash is its own drying aid and you can immediately dry the car and be done. But as an enthusiast, I like adding a bit of protection right before the drying process. Just spray on a wet panel right before you dry (after you've washed your panels using the rinseless using your sponge)

7) Adam's Graphene Detail Spray - I mist this on every panel (1 or 2 sprays) immediately before drying with the gauntlet towel. This does two things: it aids drying and adds a bit of protection until my next wash.

8) Chemical Guys V7 Optical - Very old product but in my opinion very great.  I have used it for years and swear by it.  It just works and leaves NO streaks. Just a super slick glossy surface.  This is the ultimate spray I use for my weekly washes right before the drying process when using rinseless.   I wipe it on with these magical microfibers from the Rag Company.

Other Detailing Products I use after much trial and error. This is "the list."

Chemical Guys Tire Shine

Tire Shine Applicator

Clear Spray Bottles

TRC Eagle Edgeless Towels (my fine finishing towels)

Titan Detailer SIO2

TRC Microfiber Towels (my workhorse towels)

Glass Towels (trust me...)

Turtle Wax HSCSW (best bang for your buck base protection once a year)

Ice and Seal Shine (Once every 3-6 months)

Koch Chemie GSF 

DIY Detail All Clean 

Cockpit Premium (the ultimate interior cleaner. Keeps surfaces free of finger oils.)

Thank you for using my Amazon links. They help me by giving me a small percentage of each purchase using my links. It does not affect you at all. These are truly my favorite detailing products!!












Tool Time: Plastic Razor Blades


These are underrated.  I use them when steel razor blades are a bit too dangerous/risky.  In this case I had some stubborn stuck on asphalt chunks stuck to my mud guards. A bit of soaking in wheel cleaner soap and some scraping took it right off. 

Get them here:

https://amzn.to/3xaY0OP




Sunday, January 28, 2024

 2023 Tesla Model Y Long Range - DIY Sleek Dash Cam Install - Viofo VM1 (Works for Model 3 as well)


You may be thinking to yourself, Tesla Model 3 and Y already come with a dashcam.  Why the need for an aftermarket one?  

Here are reasons why:

  • Redundancy
  • Wide Angle of View aka "Zoomed out." Tesla's angle of view is very narrow (zoomed in) as demonstrated below. This allows you to capture more info and its higher resolution is better for capturing license plates and other details.
  • Audio (Tesla does *not* record audio)
  • Color accuracy and resolution (See for yourself below)
  • GPS/Speed info
  • The video quality will be much better at night due to the large dedicated sensor a dash cam has.

My criteria for a superb dash cam setup. Why this VIOFO was the best:

  • Has to be compact and sleek.  My aim was to hide it behind the mirror and stick to the windshield.  
  • Has to NOT have any startup chimes, sounds, voices, etc.  This cam is perfect. All voices/sounds can be disabled. Completely silent operation (except for a slight hiss from the speaker at startup, only lasts for a few seconds)
  • Has to be inexpensive
  • Has to work with the car's power system without fuss. Plugs into the USB-C port in the front storage compartment with the sliding lid.
  • Has to connect well to the phone app and not have any weird location permission requirements. I did not get any weird vibes at all from this app/camera like other cameras I've tried in the past which force you to always reveal your location.
What's required for a stealthy low key install on your Tesla: 
(Affiliate links below, using them provides me a small kick back and doesn't affect you. These are products I actually use and recommend and using my links helps me with my time, writing about them for you) Much appreciated if you use them.

  • Plastic trim pry tools including a credit-card sized plastic vinyl wrap squeegee to gently pry the headliner just a tad so you can sneak the wire between the windshield. I'm talking 1mm of movement. This tool makes it incredibly easy to sneak the wire in for a clean install. it will evenly distribute pressure so you don't damage or Marr the headliner. The dash cam DOES come with one plastic pry tool. I don't know if it will be enough. But try it!
  • Viofo dash cam
  • 10 feet USB-C cable (I went through 7 USB-C cables until I found one that powered the camera.  Despite these cables having similar appearances and specs, for some reason 6 out of the 7 did not power my camera, but strangely they did power my iPhone.) I also had to purchase this USB-C right angle adapter for a clean install)
  • 1/2" drill bit to create a small pass through in the lower cubby for the cable to pass through. Remember this is a 100% stealth install. No visible wires. (see photo below)
  • Zip ties (you'll want 3-4 to securely attach the cable to other wires in the car)
  • Flat plastic tool to help route the cable between the headliner and windshield... probably not necessary but HIGHLY recommended. This ensures you won't damage the headliner because this tool will allow you to evenly and gently pry the headliner just enough to sneak the cable through for a 100% clean OEM install.  It has a wide footprint.
  • LED Mechanic Light. This will be very nice to see what you are doing, especially down below. My iPhone 15 Pro LED flashlight didn't cut it.  A good LED mechanic's light will put light where you need it and you can rest it on the floor so you can work comfortably.
Install Procedure

  • Test your power source and cable before proceeding. Make sure the car can power on the camera.
  • If you are uncomfortable with DIY'ing this install, please pay a professional. But if you have hands and basic tools, really it's quite simple. Taking apart the Tesla was easier than I thought. Just go slow, have a bright LED light, and you'll be fine.
  • You'll need to remove the lower kick panel that sits by your feet and covers the *right* side of the center console. It's a carpeted cover.  Take your plastic pry tool and put it under the carpeted cover near the base of the seat. Then just pull the carpeted cover away with your hands. It's large.  Place it in the back cargo area with the other car pieces. This will help you route the USB-C cable down below, across the lower kick panel, and back up the A pillar and to the rear view mirror.
  • Remove the little plastic triangle on the right side of the dash (by the long dash trim) when you open the door. It just pries out.  
  • Pull the right weather stripping down by pulling it with your fingers. Pull it down just enough so you can remove the A pillar cover. Yes you should remove the A pillar cover, it makes things way easy and helps you professionally route the USB-C cable along the SAME route of the factory wires.  I snuck my cable BEHIND a factory wire for a clean install that won't interfere with the airbag. I used Tesla's OEM route.  When you install your cable, make sure it looks 100% OEM and follow the OEM wires. You should not see any wires awkwardly jutting out.
  • Remove the lower center panel below the glove box. Just use a screw driver to pop the plastic rivets and yank it down with your hands. It's the cover that connects all the way forward to the end of the carpet and contains the OEM footwell LED light on it.  
  • Now you can remove the A-Pillar interior cover.  It pulls out using your fingers.  There is a white plastic tab that holds the A pillar cover to the body of the car in case the airbags deploy, just pull this tab out with your fingers.  The A pillar easily comes out.  Set it safely in the trunk.
  • Now empty out your front storage cubby area, this is where you'll need to drill the 1/2" hole as you see below.  This helps you route the wire.  Drill SLOWLY and in the precise position I show in the photo. Right underneath that is an AC routing ducting.  NOT the end of the world if you drill through that, but just try to avoid it.  Drill slowly and check your work.  In the position I drilled in below, the drill bit would MISS the ducting. But your car may be different so I recommend going slow.   The hole will allow easy pass-through.  Make sure you snake the USB-C cable so it GOES BEHIND things and follows the routing of other cables in the car. Zip tie your USB-C cable to these stock cables. Route the cable up the A pillar, there is a white long plastic piece that routes OEM cables. I snuck my USB-C cable behind that and routed it upwards 100% OEM style. I did not need zip ties here as I just snuck the cable in that plastic holder.  
  • You'll need to now get the cable across the top of the windshield.  Take your plastic credit-card sized vinyl wrap tool (you may use some other stiff plastic flat tool) and gently insert it between the windshield and headliner and gently gently pry JUST enough so you can sneak the cable in.  
Notes

  • This camera uses 1500ma @ 5V. In other words, very little power.
  • Power is supplied to the car's USB-C outlets whenever the car is "awake." When is the car awake? During driving, during updates, during sentry mode use. This means your camera will be automatically powered on and recording during these states.  When the car goes to sleep, no power will be supplied to the ports and thus your camera will be inactive.
  • This camera also has GPS/speed/vibration/bump detection as well.
  • This camera does come with a power supply cigarette plug. This is too short for the Tesla and sits in the rear storage compartment will require you to drill there.  I don't know what's under there so I wouldn't drill.  The hole I made in the front compartment, it was easy to see what was below the drill point.
  • I have a ceramic tinted windshield. The VIOFO cam comes with two stiff cling stickers specifically for this purpose. Cut it to size, carefully attach the sticker to the tint, and the camera to the sticker. The bond is very strong.  
Photos 

 Route your USB-C cable up the A pillar where this red and yellow highlight is.  This will travel with the factory wires and won't interfere with the airbag.  



Angle of view example.  A wide camera will provide context for cars coming from the side.


Note the right angle USB-C adapter.  Yes there's cables that are naturally right angle but for some reason the 6 I tried did NOT power on the camera. THIS is the only cable that work, pictured below.


Note the 1/2" hole I drilled.  Drill in this exact spot SLOWLY. Beneath that area is AC ducting. With the kick panel removed, and a bright light, you can easily see what's behind this. Mostly empty space.  You can probably drill to the right a bit for a tad cleaner install so you have a bit more storage space. Plug the other end of the cable to the USB port.



Tuesday, June 6, 2023

Rinseless Wash Review - P&S Absolute vs. DIY Detail Rinseless vs. ONR New Formula

 Rinseless Wash


The three newest & strongest rinseless washes in the industry.



I've recently discovered Rinseless Wash.  I've heard of Rinseless and Waterless Wash before, but always sort of thought they were gimmicks and never gave it proper thought.  I am super picky about my car's finish.  And my car is black so I'm ultra sensitive to underperforming products.  So a few months ago I gave it a proper try and it's now my preferred way to wash. I wash weekly, sometimes twice a week since it's so easy and fast. I wish I had discovered this method sooner!

Traditional soap and water washes have their place for sure.  For example if your car is super dirty & soiled, a pressure wash with buckets of soapy water is the way to go.

For the enthusiast that cleans their car often, and you have only light  to medium dirt build up, Rinseless Wash is the way to go... if you do it safely and use common sense practices! I highly advise AGAINST using any Touchless wash for your Tesla which seems to be the ultra trendy thing to do. Those extremely harsh chemicals will burn seals and trim causing oxidation. We see it time and time again on the forums as well as cracked charge port doors from the pressure.  Wash your car the safe, effective, and fun way.

Why use Rinseless Wash?

1) It saves money. You use 256:1 dilution ratio of any of the three above. This means 1 ounce for every gallon -- which is about one cap full (about 1/2 oz) of Absolute or DIYDetail per gallon or 1 cap full (which is 1 oz) of ONR per TWO GALLONS (ONR uses a big cap). Me personally? I tend to fill my bucket with three gallons of water and I get TWO complete car washes out of it. I could probably get a third wash out of it but I'm a bit on the picky side!

2) It's safer than traditional washing.  The three products above use polymer technologies.  Essentially the polymers encapsulate the dirt (think of a science bear hug) and break it down into smaller pieces and lift the dirt off the paint.  With the right wash medium to collect it (more on this later) the dirt will come off the car safely and be deposited in the bucket when you rinse.

3) It's fast & clean.  Doing one panel at a time, you can work efficiently and have minimal mess. You can wash your car in the privacy of your garage and don't have to pull out the hose or drive to the car wash.

How to use Rinseless Wash?

Step 1) Fill a bucket with 2 to 3 gallons of water (I'll provide links to everything I use below). Make sure you have a grit guard to catch the dirt and keep it from being redistributed back to your wash medium (sponge, microfiber, etc) Insert the correct amount of Rinseless Wash into your bucket.  1 oz per gallon or 256:1 ratio.

Step 2) Pre-treat your car by misting/spraying the surface using the Rinseless Solution you just created (dip your sprayer into the bucket and fill it up with the pre-mixed solution) I'll link to my favorite pump sprayer below. There's all kinds.  Pre-treating allows the product to soften and soak up and encapsulate the dirt to "work" the dirt by the time you get to it. This step is crucial! None of the manufacturers above say this is necessary but as an enthusiast, this is the way to go.  Pay special attention to extra soiled areas and give them a bit more spray love than the other parts.  Examples: Fender/door behind the wheel, rocker panels, back hatch/trunk area. I usually spray extra solution in these areas. Be liberal! It's cheap!

Step 3) Dip your wash medium into the bucket. Wring out extra solution into the bucket and use the wash medium when it's barely dripping -- do not use the wash medium soaking/dripping wet.  You want it on the verge of dripping.  This scientifically allows the rinseless polymers to do their work and let the wash medium pick up the dirt rather than leaving it on the paint.  WASH ONE OR TWO PANELS at a time for best/easiest results. Wipe your wash medium in straight lines or motions.  I tend to use an "S" pattern starting at the top working my way to the bottom of one panel. Then dip, rinse, wring out, and repeat on the next panel. The cooler it is outside (or inside) the more panels you can wash at a time.  BE GENTLE. Do not "scrub" the paint. Let gravity do the work. You are doing a contact wash, not pressure wash. Just wipe. do NOT scrub. Yes polymers are doing their work but use common sense.

Step 4) Dry.  No need to rinse.  Dry using the same motions above. Straight light S pattern from top to bottom, panel per panel.  Avoid pressure points. Avoid hard pressure. Bonus: Use a drying aid for extra shine and resistance to water spots. Links below.

In summary: Pre-Treat by spraying/wetting panel with pre-mixed solution, Dip your sponge into your bucket, wring out to verge of dripping, and gently wipe each dirty panel one or two at a time (door, fender, quarter panel, hood), then simply dry!  Dip and rinse sponge between each panel cleaning!


Wipe in straight horizontal lines. Notice the polymers action that trails the sponge -- polymers are essentially long chains that bind water to eachother. This helps pull the dirt off the surface.

This is how you pre-spray the surface.  Let soak about a minute before you start with your sponge.  Walking around your vehicle and pre-treating it in advance will give you time so by the time you finish, you can start cleaning using the sponge.



My Recommended Products

Yes these are affiliate links which I receive a small commission for every dollar spent. It does not affect you. But I do genuinely use these products for my personal rinseless wash. I appreciate your support.

1) CG Bucket. - Yes it's a bucket but it comes with a fancy sealed lid and doubles as a stool you can sit on. Plus the next item is absolutely critical and is made specifically for this CG bucket

2) Cyclone grit guard - This traps & funnels dirt to the bottom of the bucket where the dirt cannot travel back up into your sponge and back onto your paint scratching it. This takes the standard usual grit guard you may have seen and takes it to the next level. Protect your paint from scratches.

3) Pump Sprayer - This is a cheap basic pump sprayer with an adjustable brass nozzle. It works well. Though I will probably upgrade to an IK pump sprayer next -- a purpose built german pump sprayer well known in detailing circles!

4) Ultra Black Sponge - Ultra vital. This sponge is hands down the best wash medium in the business. It will last years and is carefully engineered for use with Rinseless Wash. It uses laser etched cuts to trap dirt.  Dip it in your bucket after wiping each panel and scrub it against the grit guard to dislodge any sand/dirt you may have lifted off your paint.  Remember to be gentle and use straight lines. You are basically sweeping dirt away in straight motions.  Rinse after every panel.  You can wring it out and let air dry after each use or you can leave it in your bucket for the next wash. I tend to get two washes out of every 3 gallon bucket full of rinseless. Save it for your next wash!! This sponge is thick and avoids pressure points. Pressure points scratch.

5) The Rag Company Guantlet Premium Drying Towel.  I can't say enough good things about this towel. Worth every penny. Quite simply the best towel in the business hands down. Fold this towel in fours (or as thick as possible) and wipe dry in straight lines.  This towel is thick and avoids pressure points from your hands. Pressure points scratch. Notice a theme here regarding pressure points?

6) P&S Absolute Rinseless 

7) Adam's Graphene Detail Spray - I mist this on every panel (1 or 2 sprays) immediately before drying with the gauntlet towel. This does two things: it aids drying and adds a bit of protection until my next wash.

8) Chemical Guys V7 Optical - I feel like this is an under dog. This is an older product but I swear by it. No detail spray has given me the results this does as a last step. This is my final show car magic step.  It goes on super smooth and gives incredible gloss and slickness, smells great, and dries free of any residue. Truly a magical product I stand by.    I wipe it on with these magical microfibers from the Rag Company.

Really -- you don't need every item on this list. You can get by honestly with just any of the Rinseless Wash, any old bucket, and microfibers. But for best results I recommend at least using the UBS sponge and a grit guard and the Gauntlet drying towel. You can also use any spray bottle to mist/pre-treat the panels. The other stuff is icing on the cake. Who doesn't like icing?


Now how do I rank these Rinseless Washes?

For me the top place goes to P&S Absolute.  Pros? Excellent slickness, the thickest of the three, the best scent, the easiest to use and wipe dry. Just perfection. 100/100.

Optimum No Rinse (ONR).  Like absolute, it's a polymer wash.  It smells like chemical blueberries. It works great. Though it's not as polished as P&S Absolute.

DIY Detail. It's the newest wash out there and has both polymers and surfactants. This means it pulls more dirt off the car and off the sponge when you go to rinse. I've only used it once. It seems to work great and pulls a bit more dirt than Absolute. But it also seems thin.  It definitely is the thinnest of the three -- I took a video comparing the viscous qualities of all three by shaking the bottle. P&S Absolute is easily the thickest which instills confidence when applying to my sensitive black paint.  The jury is still out for me on DIY Detail Rinseless Wash and I hope to test it out more soon. 




Wednesday, April 26, 2023

Modified Tesla Pet Seat Cover - Quick Release

 Tesla branded Dog Seat Cover - Yet modified for quick release

I love my Tesla pet seat cover as it's well built, fits perfect, and made of very nie material. However since the way they install on the non-moveable front Tesla headrests, removing them and reinstalling them past the snugged headrests raised concerns for me of wear and tear on the seat material and headrest/stitching/seams. So in order to prevent this constant taking down and reinstalling of the connecting strap to the seat when I want to take in rear passengers, I used these quick release snaps from Amazon.  (<---link to purchase here)

Simply install the dog cover as normal. Determine where you need to cut the factory Tesla dog seat cover strap (i chose somewhere in the middle after eyeballing it) then attach the buckle system. Oh tip: to ensure the ends of the freshly cut straps DO NOT FRAY, run the ends over a lighter or a gas stove flame really quickly to sear/burn the fabric ends. Just enough to melt it.  A split second is all it takes to lock in the ends.

The buckles I linked above are the perfect size and come with all the needed plastic hardware to ensure the straps do not come loose.  You can do it to the rear as well but the rears simply loop over the rear headrests and do not require "snaking through" or "squeezing through" the headrests.  This system makes taking the Tesla pet seat cover down a breeze when you need to let passengers in the back!

Monday, April 24, 2023

Tesla Model Y glass roof panel Interior Sunshade 2.0 - Keep your interior cool in the summer!

 Interior Sunshade 2.0

Despite having a special dark factory coating on the roof glass panel in the Tesla Model Y, even in 70-degree weather, you'll feel the strong effects of the sun on the big glass bubble that is the Model Y.  Even with the latest and greatest Llumar IRX Ceramic Tint all the way around, and Llumar Air 80 on the windshield, the car was still a giant heat bubble with the glass roof not covered.  Many tint places refuse to tint the roof panel as apparently the tint can cause heat to not release from the glass and crack it.

So my experience with this particular Interior Sunshade 2.0 (Amazon link to buy) has been excellent.  All products on my blog are things I own, use, and back. Fitment is great, no gaps. No noises, no rattles, no squeaks.  Work the install by doing one half at a time and learning how the clips fit in.  My driver's side roof panel was tight against the glass so I had to work in a plastic pry tool to create just enough space to press the clip in.  We're talking like one millimeter. Luckily the rest of the roof panel perimeter had adequate space. Your results may vary depending on how your car was assembled.  I won't say the hot head feeling is 100% eliminated, but it's about 80% eliminated.  The trade off for being able to see out the roof glass.

No light gaps


Great coverage



Monday, April 3, 2023

Tesla Model Y Caliper Covers From Amazon -- Great Fit & Looks Sporty!

 Tesla Model Y Long Range Brake Calipers

(Fits Standard Range and likely Performance too)

Link to the Caliper Covers on Amazon here


Install is extremely easy (lift and support car carefully of course) Three screws hold on the fronts and two hold on the back. The kit from Amazon (link above this image) includes everything needed as well as two sets of decals.  The fit is VERY secure -- the covers are not moving anywhere.  I chose the black stickers for mine (instead of the light silver) and I threw on a coat of Turtle Wax Ceramic Coating for good measure!  They look great with induction wheels. These should fit standard range as well as performance since it seems they all use the same calipers. I know for sure the Long Range and Performance does at least.  This particular kit arrived at my door in a couple days. 

Additional views:

Before the cover goes on. One screw on bottom, two on top. The bottom one goes on first, the kit comes with a little bracket.  Screw the top ones in first, then the bottom one. Do not tighten everything down until all screws are in. Thread them in loosely at first. the fit is very precise so you need wiggle room.


A view from behind. The kit comes with everything needing to install. 



Rinseless Wash: The Ultimate Wash Method for your Tesla + Master Detailing Item List

 How to Rinseless Wash your Tesla (or any vehicle for that matter) Rinseless wash is the ultimate way to wash your Tesla.  The safest, the ...